Medellín is a beautiful city with a great climate and a low cost of living. I even wrote about 27 reasons why I ended up choosing Medellín as a great place to live. But no city is perfect. Expats considering living in Medellín should also consider the downsides to living in Medellín.
Also, Medellín has been ranked as one of the top foreign retirement location by the foreign retirement publications. And there are many other websites with articles touting Medellín as a great place to live.
To me, the biggest benefits of living in Medellín are the climate, low cost of living, good and inexpensive medical care, proximity to the U.S., friendly and welcoming people and the great and inexpensive public transportation.
However, many publications I have seen tend to only discuss these positives and advantages about living in Medellín. And the downsides are glossed over or may not be mentioned. So, Medellín tends to be portrayed by some publications through rose-colored glasses.
On this website, there is no sugar-coating or looking at things only through rose-colored glasses. We cover both the benefits and the downsides or the pros and cons about living in and traveling to Medellín and the rest of Colombia. So, to balance out my article about 27 reasons why I ended up choosing Medellín as a great place to live it is important to also consider the downsides about living in Medellín.
I have lived in Medellín for over seven years and the following list of downsides is based on my experiences. I’m an expat from the U.S., so this is an expat’s perspective. The following list of downsides is in no particular order. In addition, not all of these downsides apply to everyone. And some of these downsides can be overcome or avoided.
Note the above photo is traffic in Medellín near the Bancolombia headquarters during rush hour.
1. Traffic Can be Bad
Colombia was ranked as one of the world’s worst places to drive in terms of driver satisfaction based on a study done by Waze. Colombia had several cities in that study that ranked as some of the worst in terms of traffic, including Bogotá (7th worst) and Medellín (8th worst).
Traffic is a downside of living in Medellín. And traffic reportedly is the biggest concern of expats living in the city. But the traffic in Medellín isn’t so bad. It’s worse in Bogotá in my experience. Also, the much bigger cities of São Paulo and Mexico City have some of the worst traffic found in Latin America.
Medellín has a pico y placa rationing system that was implemented to address the traffic problem in the city during rush hour. Pico y placa is a rush-hour road-space rationing system used on Monday to Friday. Under pico y placa you are restricted from driving in Medellín during rush hours on Monday to Friday from 7:00-8:30 am and from 5:30-7:00 pm depending on the numbers on your license plate.
I also recommend the Waze app for smartphones. I have used this app for nearly two years and it has saved me so many hours from being stuck in traffic. Using Waze, you can find out how long it will take to get to a destination and the best route to use. Frequently the best route avoids traffic.
I also use the metro to avoid traffic. And there are many places in the city where it’s faster to go by metro. The Medellín Metro transported over 298 million passengers in 2018, which was an increase of 3.8 percent from 2017. So, traffic would be much worse in the city without the metro system.
Also, we have looked at Medellín’s traffic problem in more detail.
Pollution in Medellín during “red” alert in March 2017
2. Pollution is a Problem
The World Health Organization (WHO) has reported that Medellín is ranked #9 in a list of the 10 cities and towns most polluted in Latin America. Medellín’s location is in a canyon with mountains surrounding the city. This does not allow for easy dispersion of pollutants.
So, pollution generally stays in the metropolitan area. This is similar to the problem found in Denver. However, rain in the city can help clean the atmosphere.
But pollution is worse in many other cities in the World. According to WHO there are over 330 cities and towns around the world with worse pollution than Medellín .
In addition, the pollution level in Medellín varies in different parts of the metro area. According to the city’s monitoring stations, the worst level of pollutants in the metro area tends to be found in El Centro, La Estrella and Itagüí and the lower parts of the valley.
In the hills found in El Poblado, Envigado and Sabaneta pollution levels are generally lower. So, it’s possible to choose a neighborhood to live in Medellín with less pollution.
Also, Medellín has pollution monitoring in place. And when pollution has become a problem as it did in March 2017 the city takes action. Actions that Medellín has taken in the past have included restricting the use of cars and motorcycles, banning outdoor activities at schools, cancelling sporting events and even warning residents to stay indoors and avoid outdoor exercise.
Furthermore, we have a separate article that looks at Medellín’s pollution in more detail.
3. Spanish is Required
I have met some foreigners that have been living in Medellín for several years that don’t speak much Spanish. But most Colombians in Medellín (and the rest of the country) generally don’t speak much English. So, to be independent you will need to speak some Spanish.
It is difficult to get by living in Medellín without speaking some Spanish. Only a few of the locals speak English. Most of the people that you will interact with on a typical day, such as store clerks, taxi drivers and waiters will speak little to no English. In addition, Education First ranks the English proficiency in Colombia as low at 48.90 on a 100-point scale.
I took 10 Spanish classes at Universidad EAFIT, so I speak Spanish at the intermediate level. And I am continuing to study to improve my vocabulary and pronunciation. Nothing has helped me enjoy my time in Medellín more than the ability to effectively communication. And I was able to receive two Colombian student visas that permitted me to be in Medellín full-time.
Also, the English-speaking expat community in Medellín is relatively small. But the expat community in the city is also pretty active with many regular meetups each month and other ways to interact with other English-speaking expats in the city.
(Note this downside is not unique to Medellín, it’s a Colombia downside that is also a downside in other cities in Colombia)
Honda Civic costs about $39,900 in Colombia, much more expensive than in the U.S., photo by Herranderssvensson
4. Cars are Expensive
Cars can be quite expensive in Colombia due to import duties of up to 35 percent. Reportedly over 60 percent of the vehicles sold in Colombia are imported. So, many models of cars sold in Colombia can be more expensive than in the U.S.
Colombia has a free trade agreement with the U.S. that went into effect in 2012. The agreement is phasing out the import duty for vehicles over a 10-year period but there are still import duties. Colombia has additional free trade agreements with several other countries. These other agreements are also phasing out import duties for automobiles. Over time this will help reduce the costs for imported vehicles sold in Colombia.
Expect to pay more for a car in Colombia than in the U.S. Also, there are also ongoing costs with owning a car including insurance, maintenance, taxes and gasoline.
But it is possible to live in Medellín without a car. Medellín has a modern metro system, which is the only rail-based metro system in Colombia. Furthermore, the Medellín metro is a comprehensive and inexpensive system.
In addition to the Metro, Medellín has extensive bus routes in the city with inexpensive fares as well as very inexpensive taxis. So, it is very possible to live without a car in Medellín. I have lived in the city for over seven years without owning a car. And the majority of expats living in the city (reportedly over 80%) do not have a car.
Cars are not the only expensive thing found in Medellín. We previously looked at nine expensive things in Medellín. But the cost of living is still low in the city with 14 surprisingly cheap things in Medellín.
(Note this is another Colombia downside that is also a downside in other cities in Colombia)
Colombia income taxes
5. Need to File Taxes Twice and High IVA Tax
If you are an expat from the U.S. living in Colombia, you likely will have to file taxes in both the U.S. and Colombia. You are considered a tax resident in Colombia if you stay in the country for more than 183 total days during a year, whether this time is continuous or not. In addition, Colombia taxes the worldwide income of tax residents.
Also, the gross income requirement for filing taxes in Colombia is fairly low. In 2016, the filing requirement was gross income of less than 1,400 UVT, which was 41,654,200 pesos (only $13,881 USD at the official exchange rate at end of 2016).
Just because you have to file taxes in Colombia doesn’t necessarily mean you have to pay income taxes. Colombia has several deductions plus you can subtract some income taxes paid in another country from income taxes due in Colombia. We previously looked at filing income taxes in Colombia.
Colombia also has a 19 percent IVA tax (a value added tax – VAT) on many products, which makes buying many things more expensive. The IVA tax used to be 16 percent but was increased to 19 percent in February 2017. But some grocery items such as milk, eggs and fruits and several other items are exempt from the IVA tax in Colombia.
(Note this is another Colombia downside that is also a downside in other cities in Colombia)
6. Difficult to Get a Loan/Credit
It takes a while to establish credit in Colombia. Mortgages are very difficult for foreigners to get. So, if you want to buy property in Colombia you may have to do it with cash. Local credit cards are also difficult for foreigners to get as well as car loans.
You need to be well established in Colombia before banks will even consider lending to you. It is even difficult for Colombians to get a mortgage, which is why the mortgage market in Colombia remains quite small – only about 3% of adults in Colombia have a mortgage.
To even be considered for a mortgage as a foreigner in Colombia, you will need to have residency with a cedula and have lived in Colombia preferably for at least a few years. You also need to have a bank account in Colombia and a credit history in Colombia. And you likely will be asked for proof that you file taxes in Colombia.
In over seven years living in Medellín I only met one expat with a local mortgage. And he was well established in Colombia with a Colombian wife and had lived in the country for over six years.
(Note this is another Colombia downside that is also a downside in other cities in Colombia)
7. Questions from Friends and Family
Medellín still has a bad reputation to overcome from the days of Pablo Escobar, but Pablo is long gone. However, when the average person in the United States or Canada hears “Medellín” thoughts tend to turn towards the scenes in the popular Narcos series – drugs and widespread violence and Pablo Escobar.
Once you start living in Medellín, you come to realize that the current reality in the city is very far removed from the time of Escobar and the violence depicted in the Narcos series. The city has achieved a remarkable turnaround since the time of Escobar, who died over 23 years ago.
But, if you are an expat living in Medellín, one downside is that you will constantly get many questions from friends and relatives. This happens to me almost every month. Over the past seven years I have heard the same questions over and over again. Questions like – Is it safe? If I come will I be kidnapped? Will I get robbed? We looked at updated statistics on security in Medellín in January 2018.
I have been living in Medellín for over seven years and my father finally came and visited me for the first time in Medellín earlier this year. My father was hesitant to come to Medellín for many years due to the reputation the city still has in the U.S. But he finally decided to come after reading some of the more recent positive press about Medellín. And he ended up having a great time in Medellín. The city greatly exceeded his expectations.
8. Need to Lower Your Expectations
You will need patience and tolerance living in Medellín or other cities in Colombia. If someone says they will be there in 30 minutes it may be in two hours, tomorrow may mean sometime later in the week and so on. Don’t expect someone to be on time for a date. It’s a pleasant surprise when they are. Colombians don’t come from a service-oriented culture. So, service can at times be very slow.
For example, when I furnished my apartment, everything was delivered later than originally promised. A sofa was promised in two days but ended up being delivered in five days. And a refrigerator was promised the next day but was actually delivered in three days.
North Americans and Western Europeans used to their more well-oiled realities will run up against their share of disorganization, poor service, long lines and bureaucracy in Colombia, which can range from mildly frustrating to infuriating.
However, this is no different than many other countries in Latin America. I have experienced similar issues in Brazil, Ecuador, Mexico, Peru and several other countries in Latin America.
(Note this is another Colombia downside that is also a downside in other cities in Colombia)
9. Jobs in Medellín Typically Don’t Pay Very Much
Don’t go to Medellín expecting to find a job that pays very well. It is difficult for a foreigner to make a living in Colombia unless you are an expat that works for a multi-national company or if you have a job in the U.S. or another wealthy country that is location independent.
In addition, the better paying jobs in Medellín tend to require the local language, Spanish. But this is no different than in the U.S. The better paying jobs in the U.S. will require English.
10-year USD to COP exchange rate graph (Source xe.com)
10. Exchange Rate is Volatile
When living in Colombia pretty much all of your costs will be in the local currency – Colombian pesos (COP). The exchange rate over the past couple years has been very beneficial if you have U.S. dollars (USD) or another Western currency. But the exchange rate has fluctuated dramatically over the years. So, it hasn’t always been like now.
Over the past 10 years the exchange rate has ranged from 1,655 to 3,437 pesos to the USD. So, your cost of living in Colombia in terms of USD will fluctuate. Over the past two years the exchange rate has ranged from 2,800 to 3,437 pesos to the USD. This is a much higher exchange rate range than the prior eight years.
(Note this is another Colombia downside that is also a downside in other cities in Colombia)
11. Crime Remains a Major Concern
Crime and safety continue to be major concerns of expats considering moving to Medellín and expats living in the city.
There are parts of Medellín where you shouldn’t go, particularly after dark, and you’ll need to learn these. Like any big city some neighborhoods in Medellín are not really safe at night.
In the 1990s Medellín was known as the “murder capital of the world”. In 1991, Medellín had a homicide rate of 375 per 100,000 residents, which is over triple the current most dangerous city in the world: Caracas, Venezuela. But over the past 25 years, the homicide rate dropped dramatically in Medellín. Now Medellín has a homicide rate that is lower than St. Louis, Baltimore, Detroit and New Orleans in the U.S.
Safety in Medellín has improved significantly in recent years. But street crime is still common in Medellín and other cities in Colombia. So, there is a need to take certain basic precautions when it comes to being vigilant about your personal safety in Medellín. But this is no different in this regard than many other cities in other Latin American countries. You can follow our expat safety tips to reduce the risk of being a victim of crime.
I have been fortunate that I have never encountered a security problem anywhere I have lived in Medellín in over seven years. But I am also safety conscious and take care not to flash cellphones, cameras or money. And I take taxis at night. In addition, I installed security doors in two apartments I lived in.
The Bottom Line: Downsides of Living in Medellín
The bottom line is that no city is perfect. For me the positives and advantages of an expat living in Medellín greatly outweigh the downsides and negatives. I have traveled to over 40 countries and haven’t yet found a city I would rather live in than Medellín.
But before deciding to live in a city like Medellín it’s important to understand the downsides. Some publications tend to praise Medellín as a top foreign retirement location but they don’t really discuss all the downsides. So, hopefully the above article will help communicate some of the downsides of living in Medellín from an expat’s perspective.
El Poblado is the most popular neighborhood for foreigners living in or visiting Medellín. But it’s not perfect and we have also looked at the downsides of El Poblado. In addition, we have looked at the downsides of living in Bogotá, the capital and largest city in Colombia. Also, we looked at the downsides of living in Cartagena and the downsides of living in Cali plus the overall downsides to living in Colombia.
What other downsides have expats experienced living in Medellín?
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Recently, I’ve obtained a mortgage at Bancolombia. I live 3 years in Colombia and am married to a Colombian. But I receive my salary in Europe and not in Colombia, so the process was quite difficult. We were denied by Davivienda because I don’t have a credit history in Colombia (seriously? I need to loan money first, say 1 million pesos, and pay it back to have a credit history so I can get a mortgage, even if I don’t need that 1 million pesos?).
Another downside you didn’t mention: the requirement to have fiadores to rent an apartment. While it’s true that some real estate agents will skip that requirement if you pay 6 months of rent in advance, not all are willing to cooperate. It’s really a pain in the butt when you don’t know anybody who can be a fiador.
Hi Michel, thanks for your comment. Yes the fiador (cosigner) requirement for renting is a challenge. I have been renting for 7+ years without a fiador, so this challenge can be overcome. I plan to cover this in a future article.
So my current situation I live in the us I go back and forth to Colombia I wanna buy an apartment in Medellin. Is their any banks that do business with USA banks cause I can get a mortgage loan in the USA and easily make the monthly payment for the apartment in Colombia and I wonder if that work as well with a car. That way when I am ready to move to Colombia I’ll have a apartment and car to get around.
Thanks a lot..very helpful
I retired with my wife and our 7 year old son to Cali, Colombia 3 years ago. The easiest way to avoid agencies, brokers and fiador (cosigner) requirements is to work with the owner directly. Be prepared to prove income and offer 3 months of bank statements to prove it. We have a lovely three bedroom unit in south Cali complete with a swimming pool and twenty four hour security.
Remember, your passport probably gives you 90 days to stay. So if it is long term residence you seek, check out the Colombian Consulate website to see which VISA you may be eligible. Good luck!
Noise and danger crossing the street are my top two issues.
I nearly got run over a dozen times in the first few months I was here. Coming from California where pedestrians own the right of way, I had to re-program my instincts.
Thats the real problem…..in the States many of the idiots walking the streets DO think they have the right-of-way. THEY DON’T ! A pedestrian only has the right of way AFTER taking precaution and entering the street. That is way we have j-walking laws. But those idiots with the earbuds in their heads don’t seem to understand this and simply feel they can step off the curb and stop traffic. Do that in Washington DC and it’s up to a $1,000 out of your pocket. Do it in Boston and your a deadman.
If you’re in the crosswalk in Massachusetts you have the right of way. Always..
every where in the u.s.a the people in the CROSSWALK have the right away, wow its the LAW
Lol try crossing without looking in the Northeast!
Thanks Jeff, great article. Every city has it’s downside, and Medellin is no different. All in all I still plan on moving there. My big draw back is learning the language. Have been to many Spanish speaking countries, and with limited Spanish I get by. I don’t want to just get by, I want to be successful. In order to do that, I’ll need to learn the language. Might be back later might not.
Cheers, Brock
Its nice to see someone write about some of the not so fine points Medellin has as well and its about time. Too many blogging sites only try to sell a place and this does not give a good reflection for some people wanting to visit. I believe blogs etc should be more on the fence in their articles and would have me reading them more instead of skipping to the comments sections first.
All of who actually live here full time have experienced or know people who have experienced the very bad and good that Medellin has to offer.
All said and done well done Jeff for tackling some of the always talked about but never written articles.
Thanks again Jeff. originally being from Boston. We run from sidewalk to sidewalk. Not sure if that has changed since I left there so many years ago. I’m not afraid of getting run over. Still have those instincts, and they are not going anywhere. I would worry about riding a bike though.
Cheers, Brock
Jeff I have to comment about income tax. To settle my mind I went to DIAN on Poblado Ave, prepared to pay whatever my fair share was. An agent was helping me fill out papers when an English speaking agent asked why I was there. When I explained the many differences of opinion among expats, especially about social security he asked if I own a car, house or any other Colombia asset. When I said no, but only a portio of my social security is taxed. He said that made no fifference, that if all I had was retirement income and was paying income tax in the US I didnt have to pay ir even file in Colombia.
Hi David, was this an official ruling from DIAN? DIAN issued a ruling in 2014 that foreign retirement incomes are taxed in Colombia – DIAN mediante oficio 58213 de 2014. And this hasn’t changed according to someone I talked to at DIAN earlier this year and also my Colombian tax accountant.
Thanks, this is a great article that should be required reading for any foreigner looking to move to Medellin. Those retirement publications continue to look at places like Medellin through rose-colored glasses and don’t really cover the downsides.
My experience crossing the street has taught me that it’s downright dangerous. My advice is to be extra, extra cautious at all times. Scooters and small vehicles can be very quiet and often move way too fast around corners. Stepping into the street from behind a parked car can be dangerous, again, because you might not be able to see or hear those small scooters that drive too fast. Crossing at a corner traffic light is often complicated because there’s only one set of lights which faces the oncoming traffic and no lights facing you. Crossing is further complicated because before you successfully cross and get to the safety of the sidewalk you have to walk across an active bicycle path and the cyclists come flying around curves at high speed. Pedestrians are at the bottom of the pecking order. If you’re crossing a one way street don’t just look in the direction the traffic is supposed to be coming from. Look both ways. Always look at least twice in all directions. Other than that it’s a breeze.
Whenever I visit Medellin I always pretend I’m an extra in “Death Race 2000” (Paisa edition)…
Vehicles see me as an obstacle at best or a target at worst, so it’s up to me to look both ways 3 times before I cross any street.
That’s right. Crossing Bogotá’s streets on-foot is no picnic, but Medellín is even worse. The dangerous, noisy motorcycles are far more prevalent in Medellín than in Bogotá. Laureles, which could otherwise be a very pleasant place to live, has allowed many of its sidewalks to be overrun by parked cars. It’s a major detraction from the quality-of-life.
Sorry, there are more motorcycles in Bogotá than in Medellín. It’s a much bigger city with over double the metro population and has more registered motos than any other city in Colombia.
I’ve been living in Medellin for the past 9 months and have found the positives that people write about to be mostly true.
However there are 2 negatives that are turning me against Medellin….
The nearly constant traffic jams and all around congestion.
And the ever worsening air contamination.
I live in a high-rise on the 21st floor and the cleaning lady comes once a week. 3 days later I swipe my hand on the coffee table and get black smut on my finger tips.
We are breathing that contamination my friends. You cannot replace your lungs.
I am currently visiting Manizales ,,,, such a beautiful place with FRESH AIR and friendly locals, same PAISA culture as Medellin.
Manizales has all the modern benefits of Medellin, but is way more livable in my opinion.
I’m seriously considering relocating here.
Can you get reliable internet service in Manizales? I am looking for a place to settle for a bit (couple years or more), but I need reliable internet because I work online. I lived in Cotacachi, Ecuador for 6 months (and I may go back). The air is some of the cleanest I’ve experienced, and you can drink the water straight from the tap. I would love to find another such place with a bit more sunshine and warmth.
Manizales has the same internet service as in Medellin…. up to 100 Mbps.
The water is the Best, fresh, cool and clean. You can drink direct from the tap.
However, please be advised that Manizales is essentially a cool weather high mountain city with frequent rain showers.
When I last visited a few weeks ago there were some days when the mornings were overcast with rain showers, but come early afternoon it was like the most glorious spring weather you can imagine… full of white fluffy clouds interspersed with plenty of warm sunshine.
I just spent a week in Medellin and agree with you 100%. I would also add that I try to follow a healthy, Mediterranean type diet and other than the fruit sold on the street I had a tough time finding places where I could maintain a healthy diet without frequenting the more expensive restaurants that cater to the more affluent. I also rented a scooter and took myself to Guatape. A nice ride if the weather is good. As I drove out of the city the change was drastic. It reminded me of Boquete, a town in the center of Panama 2 hours south of Costa Rica at the base of Vulcan Baru and at an altitude of 4,000 ft. Boquete has a similar climate without the traffic or the pollution. There is a large ex pat community in Boquete. I would like to know if there are many ex pats living outside of the Medellin to escape the traffic and the pollution?
As far as I can tell, there are a few Expats who live outside Medellin in Rio Negro and the surrounding areas, but they are scattered and do not live in any one particular area.
I think expat.com has some kind of forum for expats in that area, you should check it out.
As far as finding “affordable healthy” restaurants, good luck with that. Most Colombian food is a Brown Based Diet, meats and potatoes, so to speak.
I for one know how to cook, and I eat very well here, I shop all the local markets plus Exito, Jumbo, Carrulla and also D-1.
I can tell you that the raw materials here in Colombia are EXCELLENT… so it’s just a question of learning how to piece it all together.
Hi Raymond,
I’ve been living in Guatapé for 2 months and there’s a small expat community here (mainly American and French). It’s a beautiful little town with clean air and close to nature. The only drawback is the necessity to take the bus to Rio Negro for major food shopping every couple of weeks. The town is quiet during the week but quite busy with mainly Colombian tourists on weekends and holidays.
There is a smallish expat community in Guatapé.
I have been to Medellin twice, 2 weeks and 3 weeks, during Jan to late March, 2016. Both times I stayed in Poblado. I did not notice any air pollution or very little when I visited. I am retired and thinking of buying an apartment in the hills of Poblado above Zona Rosa. I would only use it for 4-5 months/yr. I can choose which months as my schedule is flexible. I am worried about air pollution. I was looking at an apartment that was 500 ft above the river elevation that runs through Medellin. Do you guys think I will have a problem with air pollution? Can I choose months that are better than others? I would come for 2-4 weeks at a time as I have another apartment outside Colombia.
Hi Greg, the higher up locations in Medellín tend to experience less pollution. The worst pollution according to pollution monitoring stations in the Medellín metro area tends to be El Centro, La Estrella and Itagüí and the lower parts of the valley like Laureles/Estadio.
The pollution levels also vary from day to day depending on rain, wind and other factors. I haven’t yet seen a study that looked at pollution by time of year to know if the pollution typically varies by time of year.
Medellín has a strategic plan in place with a goal to reduce the annual average PM 2.5 pollution level that was 25 micrograms in 2015 to 20 micrograms by 2020 though a number of projects.
Hello Jeff: Thanks for the reply. I think your website is fantastic. What is your source for your statement that the annual average PM 2.5 is 25 micrograms in Medellin? Are there some studies that are available to the public?
Hi Greg, yes, there are studies available to the public. Medellín has studied the pollution problem with the help of universities.
Probably the best source of information about the pollution problem in Medellín and what this city is doing is this detailed 125-page presentation (in Spanish): http://www.metropol.gov.co/aire/Presentacion_Aire.pdf.
This presentation contains much data including the growth of population, growth in the number of vehicles, a recent history of pollution levels in Medellín and the actions taken when there are pollution “red” alerts.
The 10 municipalities in Valle de Aburré, including Medellín, have an operational plan for addressing critical episodes of air pollution. Medellín also has a strategic plan in place to reduce the average annual level of PM 2.5 pollution in the city though a number of projects, which is briefly mentioned at the end of this presentation.
Thanks Jeff. The study you cited is an excellent source. I have reviewed it and there are definitely good and bad months to be in Medellin concerning pollution levels. Generally, mid Feb to mid April is the worst (also depends a bit on where you are) and the summer months (June – August) are the best.
San Miguel de Allende was named the best city in the world by Travel & Leisure. So I hopped on a plane to check it out. It is definitely a kool place, but nobody writes about the downside to living here. The altitude is 6,000 feet and the weather is better than most places, but it does get chilly at night and cold in Dec, Jan & Feb. The cost of houses is double or triple what you would pay in the USA and long-term apartment rentals have been replaced with short term AirBNBs that make more in a weekend than a month. 10% of the 140,000 people are expats but the only places to find ex pats was Starbucks and 2 or 3 restaurant/bars that cater to gringos. The biggest downside of all is the housing situation. I paid $35 to rent a room that shared a wall with the couple that rented the apartment and shared a shower. I fear not being able to find a place I could call home or knowing how much rents will keep rising. i never heard about the pollution in Medellin or the high murder rate and crime…. Is the good weather a benefit if you can see what you are breathing?
Pollution is a problem in Medellín but it varies in different parts of the city and you don’t normally see the pollution. Also there are over 600 cities in towns in the world with worse pollution than Medellín. In the 1990s Medellín was known as the “murder capital of the world” but it now has a lower homicide rate than cities in the U.S. such as St. Louis, Baltimore, Detroit and New Orleans, so the murder rate isn’t nowhere near as high as it used to be. The crime and homicide rates also vary in different parts of Medellín. Areas where expats live like El Poblado, Laureles, Envigado and Sabaneta tend to have lower crime rates than the overall city of Medellín. Medellín is like any big city — there are neighborhoods that are less safe.
Having lived in San Miguel de Allende Mexico for two years I can vouch for Ray on his impressions. The housing rental business model has changed to one set up to discourage long term rentals and encourage short term high profit Airbnb type rentals. The town is driving distance from the US Southwest and fresh, new visitors are never in short supply. Medellin is still basically set up for long term rentals and there are thousands of buildings to choose from.
I can hardly think that there is significant traffic from the USA Southwest. The safety issues traveling in Mexico are plentiful. I live in Texas 10 miles from the border on the Gulf coast. I hear people talk about fun trips and vacations in Mexico, 15-20 years ago. We have people from Monterrey, Mexico during a fall season their children are out of school. Thru that time we see armored vehicles around town.
Great article Jeff
It’s important to consider these downsides when deciding to move here. But like you said, the positives greatly outweigh the negatives.
Whenever I start to get annoyed at minor inconveniences like traffic and pollution (as with any other major city in the world), I am quickly reminded of the friendly culture, great weather, and of course the beautiful feminine women 🙂
For any adventurous expats out there (especially those who work remotely), you can definitely live a high quality life spending less than $1000 USD each month here in Medellin. Step outside the “safety” of El Poblado and you’ll find an upgraded standard of living for less $. My #1 recommendation is to learn Spanish as this will facilitate everything.
How long did it take you to complete the 10 English courses at the University? And how many days a week and hours a day were the classes? That would be the first order of day for my “mister” esposo.
I took the Spanish classes at EAFIT for over a year as I couldn’t take Spanish classes each month due to work travel commitments. I took the semi-intensive classes at EAFIT that were 2 hours per day Monday to Friday. See this article for more details about taking Spanish classes at EAFIT – https://medellinguru.com/eafit/.
En cuando se encuentra el paraíso, tiene que decirlo adiós. “Call a place paradise, kiss it goodbye”. I’ve seen it happen in Costa Rica and I fear it’ll happen here.
However the real issue for me is the traffic. Do the math, where once there were single family homes, there are now torres with hundreds of families, it’s not sustainable. I’ve actually had motorcycles come up on the sidewalk behind me, and moving relatively fast, to get around traffic.
Tranquilidad, doesn’t exist here.
Exactly ,, the Motos here in MEDELLIN are totally out of control ,, they are a plague.
I’m an American with Colombian heritage. Both of my parents are Colombian dual citizens and I was born and raised in the States. I speak Spanish but not with the fluency and ease that I desire. My husband, two children, and I are considering a move to Colombia for a year or so for the purpose of total Spanish immersion and so that I and my girls can learn more about our heritage. My girls understand some Spanish but don’t speak and it’s very important that they become fluent.
We have already lived outside of the US for 5 years on a Pacific island so we are used to different cultures.
I have lots of questions on how to make this happen! We could live on savings for a few months but eventually one of us would need to find work of some kind to make ends meet. Of course it’s important to me that we still have time to take adult Spanish classes to improve fluency. I’m a Physician Assistant ( a mid level health care provider) a profession that I believe does not exist there. My husband is a teacher. My kids are early elementary school aged and I’d love to find a great school for them to attend, especially if it’s montessori type.
I am going to look into applying for Colombian dual citizenship since my parents are citizens.
If you could point out forums, contacts, etc, that would be very helpful. Thank you!
Hi Amanda, you have many questions. Since your parents are Colombian you qualify for Colombian citizenship. And if you are a Colombian citizen my understanding it that your children also would qualify. But I assume you husband is American so he would need a visa to be in Colombia for a year – see our visa article about visa options – https://medellinguru.com/colombian-visa/. Regarding Spanish classes I recommend university EAFIT – https://medellinguru.com/eafit/. There are some bilingual schools in Medellín but we haven’t been covered them yet on this site. Some of these schools include Columbus, Montessori and The New School. I have heard good comments about Columbus. Keep in mind jobs in Medellín won’t pay that much. A better option may be to find a location independent job in the U.S. An active forum I recommend is the Facebook group Medellin Expats – https://www.facebook.com/groups/159461177529433/. Hope this helps.
Great article! I am thinking of moving to the Antioquia region area soon, however the pollution in Medellin does worry me. I am thinking that Guatape or Rionegro might be better options with less pollution. Is there any information or statistics on air pollution levels in these areas? I did a search but could not find anything. Would love to know this before I make my move. Thank you!
Hi Corey, since pollution really isn’t really a problem in Guatape or Rionegro it will be difficult to find statistics. You can find lots of statistics for Medellín in this presentation (in Spanish): http://www.metropol.gov.co/aire/Presentacion_Aire.pdf
Ok great, Jeff. thanks for the feedback!
I live in Guatapé, and the air is clean as long as you live away from the main highway into and out of town. Unfortunately, I live just above the parqueadero–where all the buses and cars park that bring tourists on weekends. The buses (and sometimes there are 2 dozen in the parking area at one time, tend to leave their engines running and the predominant easterly winds blow the diesel fumes right up the hill and fill my apartment. Also Guatapé has just begun a massive construction project to build a malecon along the lakefront. The construction is causing (and will continue to cause) major environmental damage in my opinion.
Rio Negro is much larger than Guatapé and has a number of industries. I go there often to buy food items and other things not available in Guatapé. RN is very convenient for traveling into Medellin, but it isn’t a pretty town by any stretch of the word and the air can also be polluted (though not to the degree of Medellin) due to motorbikes, buses and the local manufacturing industries. The diesel fuel used in Colombia (same as in Ecuador and some other Latin American countries) is cheap and poorly refined which causes much of the pollution in the cities.
All the best with your decisions about relocating.
Thanks So much Jeff, You tops on my list!! Leaving soon for a few hrs. Trying to get my shopping done, and other errands. So I can help a sick friend of mine on Saturday.
Hi Corey:
I have discussed the pollution situation with Jeff in the past. I have tried to compile as much info as possible. Here is what I have found (some pertain to Medellin, others are general discussions):
https://www3.epa.gov/region1/airquality/pm-aq-standards.html
https://siata.gov.co/descarga_siata/index.php/index2/graficador/
https://siata.gov.co/siata_nuevo/index.php/mapa
http://www.cleanairinstitute.org/calidaddelaireamericalatina/cai-report-english.pdf
http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?doi=10.1.1.735.4704&rep=rep1&type=pdf
http://www.metropol.gov.co/aire/Presentacion_Aire.pdf
https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/medellin-pollution-pilot-steven-adler/
I also have found some other studies and plans by the city of Medellin concerning their efforts to tackle the problem that I will try to post. The worst months are Feb to April and perhaps Oct/Nov. The higher level of pollution during these times seems to be due to the fact that the dry season is changing to the rainy season which affects the ability of the pollutants to be dispersed.
Greg
Hi Greg,
Whoa thank you so much for all the info! Super helpful. I will be sure to have a good look through all of the links. If you hear of anything else on pollution in the area, please feel free to share!
Corey
I am surprised by how many comments there are about pollution….I guess Jeff has done his research and one cannot argue with facts, yet I can say that prior to reading this article pollution never came to mind, Ok I only spent 5 weeks recently in Medellin part of a 10 week trip in Colombia and never felt it. I was in Mexico city last year and after 4 days I would wake up in the morning short of breath and could smell it…..you can really also feel the pollution in Bogota…..but Medellin?…..so I guess it is all relative. Yes I agree be really careful as a pedestrian and I found that 90% of the places i wanted to check out where within 1km of a metro station or a rapid bus stop, so for me I do not see the necessity of a car there even for long term stays. Great website Jeff.
Hi Christophe, thanks! Yes, pollution is felt differently by different people. I don’t feel it at all here but other expats I have talked to complain all the time. But I felt it in Mexico City. And I agree you don’t need a car. Reportedly over 80 percent of expats living here don’t have a car.
The pollution is seasonal, it mainly comes in March & April, just before the heavy rainy season but also at a time with very little to no wind in the valley.
Inder will frequently cancel outside athletic events during this time.
Colombia is a beautiful country. As always, one should be always cautious when traveling/staying in a foreign country.
I wondered where in the list the traffic would be placed. To no surprise, first. It’s definitely off putting of one is not accustomed to such heavy and disorganized traffic.
Can you get health insurance there? What does it cost?
Hi Sean, health insurance was covered in a separate article on this site – https://medellinguru.com/health-insurance/
Wow great post. Thanks for sharing.
Jeff,
Great article. Very informative. The income tax portion is a bit confusing. So if I lived in Colombia would I be required to pay income tax on my American pension which I do not pay in the the U.S. ?
Thanks. Supposedly no longer needed to pay income taxes on a foreign pension according to a presentation by a tax accountant I saw recently. I plan to write an updated income taxes article when I get more information.
Such a great article about vehicle, this is very informative and helpful.
Too many americans here thanks partially to the excellent work done by Jeff and his team!
Dear Jeff, I am 68, single, and native born Californian from Los Angeles and have been retired in Lake Chapala, Jalisco, Mexico for the last 6 years on a tourist visa returning to California a couple times a year to visit family. I would like to relocate to Medellin as a retiree. I have a decent pension as a retired Spanish teacher and English as a second language educator for the state of California. I visited the Colombian Consulate in nearby Guadalajara with all the proper documents for the retirement visa. The only problem was that the document with proof of my retirement benefits was not accepted because it did not have my name on it. At that point, I had relaized that I had downloaded the wrong document. Instead of suggesting to me to return with the proper document, I was told that I would have apply at the Los Angeles Consulate with the correct documentation and to be interviewed. I informed him, according to your website, that one can apply at any worlwide Colombian consulate foer the reitement visa and he still advised me to apply in L.A. Jeff, what´s your take on this? By the way, he did not give off a positive vibe….as if he wanted to make it diificult for me…Instead of flying back to L.A., would you suggest that I apply in Bogota? I plan to visit Medellin again for two weeks in january. Id much rather apply in person than online. Thankd Jeff!
Hi Fabian, you are supposed to be able to apply for visas at any Colombian consulates but the consulate in Mexico probably isn’t experienced with working with foreigners from the U.S. When you visit Medellín in January you could also potentially use a visa agency. There are several listed in this article – https://medellinguru.com/retirement-visa/ and InterCol is responsive and reliable in my experience.
Hi Jeff,
One negative about colombia is how difficult it is to pay bills remotely. I’m still struggling to pay utilities through EPM remotely fromm USA. I can ask friends in Medellin to help me out, but I don’t what to constantly ask. XOOM (PayPal company) is starting to get set up in Colombia but they are not connected to EPM as of yet. World remit does not seem to work for me either – Any Expats have luck with remote bill paying to EPM?
BTW: I don’t have a Colombian Bank .
No Cedula either.:)
One way is to have a bank account in Colombia with online access. For example, I have a Colpatria account that I can use to pay EPM.
Hi Jeff –
First, thank you very much for the great job that you do in publishing such great and helpful information for folks who are thinking about a move to Medellin, Colombia. I applied for and received a M-11 (Pensionado Visa) which is good for three years. I live in NYC. The entire process took 48 hours after paying ($52 and $230) via a money order (no cash accepted at the consulate). I retired on March 1st 2019 but prior to that I visited the SS office to claim early benefits at 62 years. The process was relatively easy. Within a month I received my award letter in which my monthly SS check amount was noted. I visited 2 government offices downtown in NY to have the SS letter apostilled. I took that letter to the meeting with at the consulate in NYC. I am traveling to Medellin within the next two weeks. I was instructed to visit Migracion as soon as I get to Medellin (15 days window) to register my visa. Once that process is completed I will at the same location apply for my cedula para pensionado. Questions: (1) Can I open a checking account as soon as I apply for the cedula? will I receive the cedula on the same day or will the give me a receipt which I can use to open the checking account? I am vising for 10 days before my wife and I officially move to Medellin at the end of May – already purchased tickets including one for our dog. Thanks again for all the great information that you provide. I use Medellin Guru for reference on everything that we do.
Hi Jeff,
Thanks for the great info. My wife is Colombian and we’ve been married for 13 years now. She would like us to move to Medellin in maybe 5 or 6 more years. While has great advice on culture in general, she is from the Cali area and so has limited personal info on Medellin, so your articles are a great help. Thanks again!
very good I liked high quality content
Leaving Colombian drivers off the list is unforgivable!
Ruthless, inconsiderate, aggressive, and just plain dangerous. The amount of really bad accidents I see on a daily basis on my commute to Alto de las Palmas is staggering.
Colombian drivers have become my biggest gripe after 4 years living in El Medallo.
Planning a trip to Medellin in mid July to scout out the area for possible retirement destination in 3 years. Really appreciated all the information you have provided Jeff and for the comments as well. Thanks! Mark
Hello, I am an American Researcher at James Madison University working on a study of expats. If you have 15-20 minutes and would like to participate, here is the link to the survey. All responses are anonymous. Thanks in advance!
Here is the link to the survey:
http://jmu.co1.qualtrics.com/jfe/form/SV_42S7BYXE1HL64Bv
Hey Jeff, I’m in Medellín and I don’t agree with a couple of things… security, depends where you are in the city. I’ve walked alone at late hours and alone without any fears, sure there are places you just wouldn’t go even if it’s in the middle on the day but for the 3 years I’ve lived here I’ve never had the need to expose myself in those places. Traffic, yes but for most big cities is pretty much the same thing… at least here you can find places in Poblado where you don’t need a car and there’s practically no traffic in your street, very calm… and for pico y placa, if you get an electric car there’s no restriction if you decide to buy one… and yes, they are more expensive.
Not sure if anyone still check this thread but I was hoping to get some information as far as moving to Colombia and how the whole customs process is going to be?
My wife is Colombian and we are moving to Colombia to live there. We already bought a house in Madeline. We like to bring all our household goods to Colombia and have reached to few companies and few have offered us the service however it seems bringing personal items to Colombia is quite challenging
https://usgshipping.com/shipping-to-central-and-south-america/shipping-to-south-america/shipping-to-colombia-from-usa
Is this true that we need the permission from Colombian Embassy to bring our items to Colombia?
Please share your experience if you have shipped a container.
This is a topic we haven’t covered as very few foreigners ship household goods to Colombia – see here for information that is required – https://www.internationalmoving.com/moving-to-colombia.html
i prefer Thailand over Medellin. Better night life, better and cheaper massages(But because i have bad back) and better food. Also woman in Thailand are more submissive and will do more for you. Also safer. But Medellin is my 2nd favorite city and so I’m here now since Thailand is closed.
Have you have visited Thailand Medellin Guru?
Yes, I have been to Thailand and was not impressed. Too far and impossible language to learn.
I wrote a comparison of Medellín vs Chiang Mai and Medellín easily won – https://medellinguru.com/medellin-vs-chiang-mai/